I clecoed on the skins and reamed the appropriate holes to #40. I couldn't resist propping it back up and admiring my new rudder. As a tailwheel instructor, it's hard to overstate the importance of this particular control surface.
There is an eeeeeeever so slight wave in the trailing edge, but it's not huge (only around 1/16" at most). I'd have a problem if there was a lot more waviness here, but this amount is merely cosmetic from what I can tell. It probably won't be noticeable at a distance.
The trailing edge should be drilled square to the rudder since the rivet shanks will be also be square with it. I set the rudder on some 2x4s on my workbench and used a level to check that everything was indeed level.
I managed to improvise by attaching a small level to my drill to make sure the drill bit stayed square to the rudder.
It looks stupid, but it works. |